Hobby Shop Blog

Artisan crafts are made by skilled manual workers. An artisan is also known as a craftsman, who uses tools, and very rarely, machinery, in a special way to produce a handmade article.

During the Middle Ages, in Europe, craftsman organized into guilds, which were associations of master artisans. These guilds were granted charters by local authorities. To become an artisan in a guild, a person worked as an unpaid apprentice under a master artisan. If the apprentice completed the training, he became a paid journeyman, but to become a master artisan, he had to produce a masterpiece that met the standards of the guild. Artisans have been using their hands and imaginations for many centuries. Some artisan jewelry dates back as far as 7000 BC, when gold and copper began to be used for adornment.

Artisans were the dominant producers of goods before the industrial revolution, and to this day, the most beautiful pottery, furniture, jewelry, tapestries and glass ware is made by artisans. Consider the master artisan glass blowers in Venice and the artisan tapestry weavers in France. In some remote villages in Italy and Peru, the whole village depends on the income from the work of their artisans. Hand made artisan jewelry is prized, especially if it represents a particular culture. Italian cameos are made by artisans, and Native American artisans produce some very beautiful turquoise pieces. Other artisan crafts include rugs, woven baskets and wood carvings, such as those made by African tribal artisans.

Did you know that you can find stained glass deals if you look hard enough? There are a number of places to buy stained glass – let’s look at a few of them.

The easiest and least risky way to buy glass is in a kit. You can purchase kits online: simply search for “stained glass kits” and you’ll see dozens of online suppliers. Or you can buy kits at Michael’s Arts and Crafts, Ben Franklin, or your local craft store. Many smaller craft stores may not stock kits, but they will be glad to order what you want.

The kit will only include glass you need for the project; you don’t have to worry about leftovers. If you’re new to the hobby, start with a kit or two – that way you won’t invest in glass inventory you may find you don’t need.

If you decide to buy glass in bulk, the first place to look is your local glass shop or craft shop. There are advantages and disadvantages to dealing with your local store. The advantages are clear: you can build up a business relationship with the store, you can inspect the glass before you purchase it, and you can ask questions and get advice from a knowledgeable source. The disadvantage is their selection may be limited and their prices may be higher than you can get from wholesale or discount glass companies. Of course, your local shop can order glass, but you lose the advantage of pre-inspecting the glass, and the price will probably be a little higher since the store will need to mark the glass up in order to make a profit.

If your store orders glass for you, ask if you can inspect it before you actually make the purchase. The color or texture in the catalog may not be the same as the color or texture you eventually receive.

There are a number of glass suppliers that can be found online. Simply search for “stained glass supplies” or “stained glass” and you’ll see hundreds of possibilities. If you decide to try an online supplier, make a small purchase the first time so you can evaluate their quality, professionalism, and service. When you’re comparing price with your local shop, make sure you take into account shipping charges; the raw glass may be cheaper, but when combined with shipping costs the total transaction may cost more.

Some glass manufacturers sell “sample sets.” These are exactly what they sound like: packages with a variety of glass types and colors enclosed. Many smaller sample sets cost less than $15 or $20 at online supply stores. Typically larger craft stores like Ben Franklin carry very few glass sample sets; if they do, their selection will be limited, but if you check they may have just what you need. In general the sheets of glass are smaller than what you’d normally buy, so you’re not stuck with a lot of glass you may never use. If you’re new to the hobby, aren’t sure what you want to make, and are interested in experimenting, a sample set can be an inexpensive way to try out different colors and techniques.

If you stay alert you may find great deals from local artisans or hobbyists. For instance, many hobbyists will sell glass if they’re preparing to move – glass is hard to pack up and move, and many people won’t want to bother. You may not find an opportunity like that often, but if you do, you can usually pay twenty-five percent or less for glass compared to what you would have paid retail.

Sometimes glass shops will also sell partial sheets at a large discount. If the partial sheet is large enough for your intended use, great! (Buying partial sheets is like buying carpet remnants.) Glass shops often also have “For Sale” bulletin boards for hobbyists to use to advertise leftover glass they want to sell – keep an eye out for pieces you can use.

You can also find supplies and tools at yard sales – make sure you have a wish list of tools with you and you may find exactly what you’re looking for. You can also buy used tools on “For Sale” bulletin boards at glass shops; if a local craftsperson has upgraded to a more expensive grinder, for instance, they may be more than willing to sell you their used grinder for a fraction of its original cost.

There is much more to this story than written here. Stained glass can be incredibly interesting once you learn all about it…

What kind of embroidery thread should I use? This is one of the most common questions we hear. The answer is simple, and difficult, at the same time.

The first thing to decide is what fiber to use. Rayon, polyester, cotton, silk, or metallic? All have their pros and cons, but basically it comes down to personal preference. I believe in using whatever threads work for your project. If it works well in your machine, and you like the effect you get while using it, then don’t hesitate, enjoy it! Don’t let the embroidery “police” tell you what you should or should not use in your project. As odd as it sounds, embroidery machines have preferences too. So experiment, and don’t be afraid to use a particular thread just because it’s not “made for that”.

Rayon Thread

Rayon embroidery threads are currently the most popular threads used in embroidery machines. They perform consistently well in high-speed embroidery machines with very little breaking or fraying. Rayon is a high sheen thread, and often used as a lower cost alternative to silk threads.

Most Rayon embroidery threads are available in 40wt, though 30wt can be found without effort. A wide range of colors and shades are available, including variegated colors.

Though some brands can be, rayon embroidery threads are not generally colorfast. It is best to avoid using any bleaching agents, including those made for colors.

Stitches sewn with rayon threads are very smooth and consistent, leading to a higher quality embroidery project.

Rayon threads do deteriorate over time, so attention should be paid to how it is stored. In low humidity regions, rayon threads can be stored in the refrigerator to extend thread life for a long as possible.

Polyester Thread

Polyester is rapidly catching up to the popularity of Rayon threads for embroidery. It is a very strong and economical thread. Polyester embroidery threads won’t fade or shrink in the wash.

The luster, or sheen, of polyester thread falls between that of cotton and rayon.

Polyester threads do have some give or stretch to them.

Polyester embroidery threads are available in a wide range of solid and variegated colors. Like Rayon, the most popular thread size is 40wt, but 30wt and 50wt can be easily found.

Cotton Thread

Cotton embroidery thread is available in a wide range of weights, and is suitable for most embroidery projects. 40wt and 50wt are the most common, but cotton threads range from 8wt to 100wt.

Cotton thread does not stretch a great deal, and will break if pulled too tightly. Cotton thread will fade with the sun, and shrink in the wash, so treat it as you would cotton fabrics.

Most cotton threads sold now are mercerized. This is a chemical and heat process that increases the luster of the thread. During the mercerizing process, fuzzy threads are burned off, creating a smoother surface. This smooth surface reflects light, increasing the luster of the thread. It also has the effect of increasing water absorbency, making the thread easier to dye.

Long staple cotton is finer and stronger than regular cotton. Most high quality threads are made with long staple cotton, creating a softer, stronger, higher luster thread. Long staple threads tend to have fewer slubs, lumps of lint spun into the cotton threads.

Silk Thread

Silk is an elastic, though very strong thread, and is among the most beautiful of natural fibers. It has a high sheen, and creates a distinctive look when used in embroidery projects.

Pure filament silk is the highest quality silk, as the fibers do not need to be spun; they come naturally in long strands from the silkworm.

Spun silks are made of shorter fibers. They come from broken cocoons or the beginning and end of cocoons.

Silk thread, and projects created with silk thread, can be gently washed in the washing machine with a mild soap. Bleaching agents should not be used as they can damage the threads.

In most cases, when it comes to thread, you get what you pay for. Good embroidery thread will stand up to high-speed embroidery machines without breaking or shredding. Bargain bin threads are inexpensive, but of poor quality, and will cost you in time and frustration.

Have fun, and don’t be afraid to experiment with thread.

I have been involved in Family history for about twenty years now, and have been on the family history circuit attending various fairs around the country for about twelve years.

In my time on the circuit, I have met lots of stall holders, some are ‘fly by nights’ who think you can shove anything onto a CD, flog it, make a pile of cash and then disappear, (they never last long, thankfully) some are genuine folk who really want to help people trace their ancestry, and then we have the ‘big boys’ or those that intend to be one of the big boys.’

The ‘fly by nights’ have been known to pirate information, (census records, parish transcriptions, etc.,) or download free information from the Internet, copy it to a CD, put a pretty picture on the front and sell it at a family history fair or on Ebay. A quick buck is all they are interested in.

The genuine folk strive hard to make sure the products they sell, whether it be parish transcriptions or census, etc. are of first rate quality. They spend hours, days and sometimes months, transcribing hard to read and all too often almost illegible documents. These people are really proud of the work they have produced and they make it available at a reasonable cost which belies all the effort it has taken.

The ‘big boys’ or major players have loads of money to spend on advertising. I am sure you have seen the full page adverts in the magazines. The major players (or wannabe major players) are prepared to pay a fortune to keep themselves top in the pay per click bids, and buy up any and all domain names that have anything, even vaguely to do with genealogy.

No, this is not ‘sour grapes’ from one of the little guys. Please don’t misunderstand me. I am not against anyone making a living. What I loathe is the major players doing their best to force the genuine, little guy out of business. Of course, if they succeed in getting rid of the little guy, then the major players will get a larger slice of the cake. The problem is in the end, as always, it is the customer who suffers. Limited records, not always good, and only available at the price they want to charge.